Delizia! The Epic History of Italian Food

(2014-12-08) On one of my usual visits to a well-known bookstore, I had seen and flipped through this book called Delizia! The Epic History of Italian Food, written by John Dickie. To be honest, at first glance it didn't convince me to buy it, so I put it back where it was. I remember that day they had it on one of the tables, and there were several copies. A few days and a couple of weeks passed, and then I returned with my wife, this time determined to buy it. So, while browsing through various books, I couldn't find it. I asked one of the employees who assist customers, and it turned out he couldn't find it either; however, checking the computer, it showed that there was one last copy left, at least in that branch. The employee consulted with another colleague, and between the two of them, they found it. I bought it that day.

Several reasons motivated me to buy it: an eye-catching cover, some images inside, a book on culinary history along with other historical connections, specifically related to Italy. Many of us Argentines have ancestors of Italian origin due to the massive immigration from that country. Above all, Argentines—even those who are not of Italian descent—have an Italianate influence in many aspects of our culture.

Needless to say, after reading the book, it is highly recommended for any reader interested in the subject, as well as for culinary students or graduate chefs, history students or graduates (especially Italian history), and sociology or social sciences students or graduates focusing on food, due to the rich cultural background it provides.

The author is John Dickie, an English historian, journalist, and professor who is focused and specialized in the study of many aspects of Italy. So much so that in 2005 he was awarded the Commendatore della Stella della Solidarietà Italiana (Commander of the Order of the Star of Italian Solidarity) by the President of the Italian Republic—making him, in essence, an Italian knight. www.quirinale.it/qrnw/statico/ex-presidenti/Ciampi/dinamico/comunicato.asp?id=26171 The author's website is www.johndickie.net/

The copy I acquired is the first Argentine edition, from August 2014, but the original edition in English dates back to 2007 and was titled Delizia! The Epic History of the Italians and Their Food. Translated by Efrén del Valle Peñamil.

The author carries out a meticulous research process, retracing the history of food in Italy. He begins in the early Middle Ages, around 1100, and from there he doesn't stop until the present day. He selects cities he considers key (or the most important ones) and develops the characteristics of the food along with historical context. He dispels some myths. He starts the first chapter with "Don't tell the peasants," and it really is a myth he takes care to clarify: famous Italian food had its origins and development in the major urban centers, not among the peasantry. It's a myth promoted by the advertising industry. The peasantry was the group that suffered the most from hunger; he doesn't dwell on them for too long, perhaps because there might not be as many historical records as those he found in the cities. The book is clear and easy to understand. It doesn't feature recipe lists, but it does include a few specific recipes from each historical period.

He mentions several significant works throughout history in the culinary arts and explains both the works and their historical contexts.

He shows us how changes occur over time and how people adapt to emerging innovations, as well as how people's situations and conditions regarding food are reversed.

Conflicts of interest regarding food issues pop up constantly, alongside how they get resolved or balanced despite the inequalities caused by those conflicts.

While developing the history of cuisine, he mentions historical events and customs, weaving everything into his descriptions of the cities and places he discusses.

There were many points I found interesting and was unaware of, which I took note of, but there are too many to detail here. As a few examples: I was unaware of the former existence of spices that were popular back then but are now exotic, such as galangal or grains of paradise (malagueta pepper). The descriptions and mentions of the medieval butcher, the vast Emilian farms, and the history of the lazzari were also quite interesting.

Argentina is mentioned twice: once in the chapter on immigration, regarding a politician—for a book on Italian food history, he fitted the subject seamlessly; the politician leaves us looking bad (an allusion to politics, or bad politics in general? Quite possible)—and at the same time, the inclusion of Argentina in such a characteristic topic as immigration (emigration for them), as it was one of the countries that received the largest influx of immigrants. Later, near the end, it is mentioned again with the opening of a pasta factory of Italian origin.
I really enjoyed two chapters: the one on Naples and the history of pizza, and the one on Genoa regarding immigration; the conclusion he draws there struck me as spot-on.

Each chapter can be read independently, but to gain a much better understanding, it is recommended to read the whole book from start to finish, as it provides context and mentions events that later impact the future topics he addresses.

If there is a criticism to be made, it might be the limited coverage of the cuisine of poverty. Although it was always the same, as he states, I feel it left room for deeper exploration—perhaps focusing on the figure of the poor, hungry peasant. It is food that didn't transcend (even if it was always the same), but those people lived, were scattered across the entire country, and I don't believe it was "the same" nationwide. What about their social histories? Why was it the same? What exactly was it in each city or region? Etc. He mentions it and addresses the topic, but only in passing; for example, at the end he mentions the attire and labor of the poor female rice weeders (mondine), but not much more. He could have expanded on this in its corresponding section when discussing the era in which these women worked and lived that way—it feels like it had potential for more, always keeping the focus on food.
At the end of the book, he provides a brief and somewhat critical analysis of Italy's current situation regarding food and nutrition.

An interesting and highly recommended book to read.

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